Blue crabs, Babe and bubble letters

Portia Jones succumbs to the creative and culinary charms of Baltimore

Established in 1729 and rising to prominence as a shipbuilding centre and renowned for its role in the War of 1812, it’s tempting to think of Baltimore, Maryland, as purely a maritime and historical hub. Venture beyond its famed harbour, though, and you’ll find street art, museums, sports and bountiful seafood in Charm City.

A staple of Baltimore cuisine, Maryland blue crabs are mostly sourced from Chesapeake Bay and steamed with Old Bay seasoning. Exceptionally sweet and buttery, you can consume these colourful crustaceans across the city. Local favourites include L.P. Steamers, Nick’s Fish House and family-owned Captain James Landing, where you can challenge yourself to ‘all-you-can-eat crabs’ for cheaper than $50 per person.

Seafood aside, you’ll also find a thriving dining scene with James Beard Award-nominated chefs, farmers’ markets, craft beer breweries and bougie brunch spots. For a gut-busting lunch, Chaps Pit Beef serves a loaded beef sandwich the size of your head.

While the Baltimore Museum of Art (BMA) is a must-visit for modern and contemporary art, including the world’s largest collection of Henri Matisse, the street art scene is worth exploring for an ever-changing urban canvas, often highlighting a burning social commentary. The city’s best-known pieces include the Wall of Pride, the Divine mural in Mount Vernon and the hand-painted “LOVE” hand murals by Michael Owen.

Graffiti Alley is Baltimore’s open-air art space in the Station North Arts District and is one of the few spots where you can legally spray without reprisals. Here, walls and floors are layered with edgy street art, including stencils, bubble letters and more complex pieces, so every visit offers a fresh, one-of-a-kind photo backdrop. Head to Southwest Baltimore (SoWeBo) for street art that packs a punch. Spot murals that tell the transformative story of the community, its culture and the issues that matter most.

“It’s tempting to think of Baltimore as purely a maritime and historical hub. Venture beyond its famed harbour, though, and you’ll find street art, museums, sports and bountiful seafood.”

DID YOU KNOW?

Baltimore is a positively star-spangled city: Fort McHenry was where Francis Scott Key wrote the U.S. National Anthem during the War of 1812.

Baltimore’s famed waterfront is arguably the city’s epicentre, bursting with shops, restaurants and buzzing bars. One of the main draws, though, is the Historic Ships collection in the Inner Harbour, comprising historic boats and the 19th-century cherry-red Seven Foot Knoll Lighthouse, the oldest of its kind in Maryland. Step aboard the 854 USS Constellation, the only vessel serving in the American Civil War and World War II, to nose around the gun deck and captain’s cabin and watch booming live cannon firings.

Built in the 1930s, the Chesapeake is worth a peek. This 16-person boat was essentially a floating lighthouse which guided maritime traffic in Chesapeake Bay. Take a tour to see crew quarters and officer staterooms to imagine what life was like aboard a mid-century lightship. Further along and infamous for sinking the last enemy ships in WWII, USS Submarine Torsk offers a view of a Tench-class torpedo room, engines and tight living quarters.

An undeniably passionate sports city, Baltimore is home to the NFL’s Ravens and the MLB’s Orioles, both with highly engaged fan bases. Playing at home in two impressive venues, these games aren’t just for locals; tourists can also root for the Ravens and cheer “the O’s”. Football fans can wear their finest purple attire, tag along for a M&T Bank Stadium tailgate (a lively pre-game ritual with food, drinks and games) and purchase tickets at the box office or online.

The Orioles baseball team (the birds) play at landmark Oriole Park at Camden Yards, where you can bag lower-level Terrace Box tickets for just $19, Monday through Thursday. Just a short stroll away is the Babe Ruth Birthplace Museum, celebrating Baltimore’s most famous baseball legend, George Herman “Babe” Ruth, recruited for the Minor Leagues at just 19 in 1914.

With over 450 miles of streams, creeks, and rivers, Baltimore and its surrounding areas are arguably best explored by boat. Witness 300 years of history aboard a rented kayak, SUP, cruise, or an electric-powered pirate ship. Hop on an informative water taxi tour with Baltimore Heritage for live narration highlighting the city’s most prominent landmarks and expertly threading the past and present as you sail toward Fort McHenry.

For a memorable morning (depending on how much you imbibe), board a City Cruises ‘bottomless mimosa boat’ for free-flowing drinks, a chef-prepared buffet, and DJs spinning the decks in the sea breeze.

A city of many innovations, Baltimore introduced the first commercial streetcar and railroads, built the famed clipper ships and launched the summer treat favourite, the snowball stand. Yet its proudest claim may be that it’s the birthplace of the United States national anthem.

During the War of 1812, the British shelled Fort McHenry on 14 September 1814. When the smoke cleared, an American flag, stitched by young widow Mary Pickersgill, was still stubbornly flying. That emotive sight inspired Francis Scott Key to pen a poem about it, which would later become one of the world’s most recognised songs.

Today, you can step inside the handsome red-brick 1793 home of Mary Pickersgill, the skilled seamstress who stitched the enormous 30-by-42-foot garrison flag. On a guided tour, you’ll learn more about the maker and her family and view Federal-period furniture photos and exhibits. “You can look far and wide, but you’ll never discover a stranger city”, John Walters opined of Baltimore. Perhaps the filmmaker was alluding to Charm City’s curious mix of historic, experimental, and blue-collar yet creative contradictions, making it one of America’s most underrated destinations.

GETTING THERE Fly direct from London Heathrow to Baltimore/Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport with British Airways or Virgin Atlantic, taking approximately 8–10 hours. GETTING AROUND Navigating Baltimore is easy via the Charm City Circulator bus, MTA bus/light rail and walking in areas like the Inner Harbor. Fares are around $4 (£3) for most journeys on public transportation. BEST TIME TO GO June to August is popular for festivals but hot and crowded. April to June and September to October offer milder weather and lower humidity, perfect for walking. MORE INFORMATION baltimore.org